But there is only 2 or 3 customs officers, so these guides do the running about to the Authorities for you. Just make sure they have a laminated ID and are actually in the customs area before they approach you. They appear to be unpaid customs staff, living off whatever tips they get. I guess around 10 Euros is about right considering they can save you over an hour in bureaucracy. Having said that, the average labourers wage in Morocco is around 10 Dirham an hour, which equates to around 1 Euro, so it’s up to you and your conscience.
The other thing to consider when going to Morocco is bike insurance. Unless you arranged cover before you left, you need to buy some when you get there. This is easily done at a kiosk just outside the customs area where you will also find all the necessities for your stay; ATM’s, Bureau de Change, touts and the like. I say ‘easily done’, but that’s only if a) they accepted credit cards b) Bureau de Change guy spoke English (or you speak French) c) Tesco haven’t put a hold on your card in case of fraud, despite you forewarning them you were off to Africa and d) the staff at the insurance kiosk haven’t gone off to pray when you get back there.
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On the ferry to Tanger, I was speaking to a couple of Brits who are frequent visitors to Morocco. Our aim was to get as far as Azrou on that first day, but these guys told me it would be about a 5 hour ride.
Considering it was around 5pm Morocco time before we docked, Azrou would not be possible before dark so we took their advice and headed to the Hotel Continental, in the medina overlooking the port. Just as we were out of the port, we saw a sign pointing to the hotel. As I turned right around a massive roundabout, Jen pointed out I was going the wrong way (I wasn’t). Due to the panic in her voice, I stopped, just in time for a petrol tanker behind to swerve and miss us before carrying on its way to the docks. Having sorted out our direction of travel, we followed the signs and headed up through the tight winding streets and with the help of locals we found the hotel. We didn’t ask for any help and were finding the place fine, but they shouted and pointed as we rode past anyway. In through the gates we went and before we had stopped, a local was there saying he was the ‘guardian’ of the bike and would watch it overnight, for a nominal fee of course. We took our chances and might pay him if the bike was still safe in the morning. The hotel was nice enough, probably 3*. The ‘Rough Guide’ said rooms over-looking the front had a good view over the port, but we wouldn’t know as we were stuck in the room furthest away, facing the rear. There was also very little hot water, but to be honest, I was so hot that a cold shower did the job for me. Jen was less understanding though. The hotel had a restaurant, but no bar, so we headed out to take in the sights of Tanger.
We took a wee stroll through the medina, heading to the promenade area. There weren’t too many locals about at this time, given it was the last night of Ramadan, but as time wore on, the streets became more and more crowded. On the promenade, we saw a welcome sight – the neon light of Heineken.
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